Trek Down The Mountain

Today we started our trek back down the mountain. We leave 2 of our colleagues at base camp who are climbing up to camp 2. A third member became ill, so he is headed back down the mountain with the group. The trek down is much faster than up because we are acclimatized. Today our hike is to Pheriche, which is about 12 miles in distance with a loss of 3,400 ft in elevation. Along the way, we took a short break in Gorakshep, where there was a group of climbers from India who were waiting for Wongchu to start a ceremony that was meant to be a blessing on a project to improve the trail to Everest.  Both Wongchu and Tony spoke during this amazingly detailed ceremony. In fact, Wongchu was delayed so Pasang Sherpa lead us the rest of the way. This was a nice change of pace for some of us, since Pasang takes fewer breaks!


It is amazing how great I feel at 14,200 ft! At Everest base camp, just trying to get out of my sleeping bag made me out of breath. Now, I feel like I could go for a run! My Spo2 is back up to 92%. It was down to 84% at base camp .

Today was a pretty long day on the trail. Many of us have developed the Khumbu cough, which is from the extreme cold and dry air. The cooking smoke hasn’t helped either! Despite all of that, everyone remains in good spirits and we look forward to the hike down to Namche, where there are showers in the room and risers instead of long drops (toilet instead of hole in ground)!

Can’t wait until Namche!

Big Day at Everest Base Camp

Today we woke up to a cold glacier! Our breakfast was pancakes and porridge. Then we were off to River Works, David Breashears’ project documenting the loss of glaciers by comparing his modern photos to photos taken in history. This huge tent at base camp tent is a beautiful gallery. The photography is impressive.

Next was a walk through the edge of the ice fall. This was one of the highlights of our stay at base camp. We got some great shots of the glacier, as well as some pretty entertaining photos of our Sherpa friends clowning around. On a serious note, we found out today that a Sherpa from another expedition died today high up on the ice fall while crossing a ladder over a crevasse. Sherpas work very hard to please their clients up here. Often, they take risks in order to save time. The death of a Sherpa was hard news after getting to know these exceptional people.

Today was Big Ed’s birthday and our camp cook did an amazing job with two birthday cakes. We also got to meet Pemba, Karma, and Mingma Sherpa, who are all climbing Sherpas. These three are all very experienced and well known climbers. In fact, Karma has summitted Everest 11 times, with Mingma and Pemba summiting 4 times each. These three Sherpas are guiding 3 of our group up to Camp 2. These guys are impressive and Wongchu has a lot of confidence in them, so we think our colleagues are in great hands. Tomorrow we leave base camp to trek back down to Pheriche.

Another amazing day in the Himalayas

Lobuche to Gorakshep and Kala Patthar

Today we continued our trek towards Everest Base Camp, with today’s goal being Gorakshep. We had a nice easy trek today, as many people are feeling the altitude. We had to send one trekker back down to Pheriche due to Acute Mountain Sickness. Otherwise, everyone is making reasonable progress. I feel quite well, I am happy to report. We passed the glacier and had great views of Pumori, Lola, and Nuptse along the way. We made Gorakshep (16,900 ft) for lunch, which was more fries and rice. No meat! We then unpacked and prepped for our afternoon hike to Kala Patthar.

The yak, pictured, is very valuable here. They are a source of wool, cheese, fuel (yak dung is burned, you get used to the smell, sort of) and are used to carry loads. We have both yaks and porters carrying the gear for the Wilderness Medical Society team. We are all extremely thankful for the yaks and porters! They are lifesavers!

Our afternoon hike to Kala Patthar was shortened due to weather. Wongchu turned us around at 17,500 ft or so due to winds and hail. As soon as we made it back into the tea house, the snow started. Wongchu is always watching out for us. If the weather agrees, we will try Kala Pathar again in the morning, as the best views of Everest and the surrounding peaks are seen from this peak. Fortunately, the snow stopped and we were able to get a few pictures of Nuptse at sunset. Everest was hiding behind the clouds, but we are hopeful for some good shots tomorrow.

An HRA doctor from Pheriche trekked up today to meet us and gave a hypothermia lecture. She will trek up to base camp with us tomorrow. Tonight, fries and eggs, lemon tea, and bed by 830. Tomorrow, Everest base camp!

Blue Sky Happy Day!

Rest Day in Pheriche

Today we had “wake up tea” a little later so we got started on our “rest day” at 7am. Pheriche sits at about 14,000 feet and it appears we are all acclimatizing nicely. Once tea and breakfast were finished, we went on a Wongchu rest day hike. These are used to help us acclimatize. This hike was about 3 hours for most, 4 hours for 10 of us who wanted to go to the top of the “hill” behind Pheriche. Of course you couldn’t keep Bob Veno, me, or Quincy Hill away from going the extra distance. Quincy has no previous hiking experience, so it is quite impressive that she is able to run around at altitude like a mountain goat! We made it to 15,776 feet and Wongchu abruptly turned us around due to the high winds that had picked up. We still got some amazing pictures of Ama Dablam and the surrounding peaks. We were also able to get some shots of the distant Makalu. Quincy and I even got a special Boise State photo. Enjoy!

Once we made it back down to Pheriche, we had lunch and then went to the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic where the three volunteer doctors presented case studies and showed us the clinic. These three are very dedicated and enthusiastic about altitude medicine. They have seen many cases of high altitude pulmonary edema and cerebral edema, along with some other interesting cases.

I got a shower today, which was very primitive but welcome! Tomorrow we leave for Lobuche, which is at 16,200 feet. I don’t know if I will have much wifi access from here up the trail, so I may not be able to post for a few days. The general plan is to spend one night in Lobuche, then hike up to Gorakshep (16,900 ft) and spend the night, then day hike up to Kala Patthar (18,000 ft), then on to Everest Base Camp (17,600)! We spend 2 nights at base camp, then we start our trek back down. I will keep the updates going when I can.

Another Blue Sky Happy Day in the Khumbu

“Rest Day” in Namche and Trek to Tengboche

We had a “rest day” in Namche. To Wongchu, a rest day means museums, a hospital, and a 4 hour hike! In Namche we went to a Sherpa museum. There were a lot of historical artifacts, but the highlight was the room with all of the pictures of famous Sherpa Everest summiters. It was really neat to take a picture of Wongchu standing by his own picture. We also were able to take a picture of Dorjee Sherpa next to his museum picture. He is one of the Sherpas on our trek who summited both Everest and Dhaulagiri! Next, we hiked up to the government museum where they had some historical items which included Tenzing Norgay‘s summit suit. We then hiked to Khumjung and the Kunde hospital. The scenery was stunning. Our goal was a view of Everest but the clouds were settling in and the rain began, so no view today. On the way down, we passed the Sir Edmund Hillary school and the longest Mani in the Khumbu. And I did learn to count! 3 Sherpas and 4 hours and I can count to 20!

Trek from Namche to Tengboche

Today we left Namche to hike to Tengboche. We stopped off at the Namche dental clinic on the way out of town. The clinic is surprisingly well stocked and the dentist very knowledgable and professional. I got a great shot with the dentist and flat Eric and flat Michelle. The hike towards Tengboche was absolutely amazing, with views of Ama Dablam and occasional peaks at Everest. We lost a lot of elevation as the trail took us back down to the river. As we walked, we came across a man and his son who were taking donations for his trail maintenance project. He was working on the trail without government support, so he got donations from all of us. We stopped for lunch at the river and Tony gave a wound care talk. He got a little help from me. The rain started during lunch, so we moved inside to take questions and got our rain gear together for the hike up. We had a 1500 foot gain today, but it was nice and cool with the rain so it was pretty easy for most. We all made it to Tengboche, which is at about 13000 feet. Once we were dry, Wongchu took 10 of us on a hike above Tengboche to a stupa. It stopped raining but we still had no view due to the clouds. It was nice to keep the legs warm while we waited for dinner, however. We met many other Trekkers tonight, as the tea house in Tengboche is a little more quaint. People next to us were from the Netherlands and Sweden. We also got to meet a young female, Pema Diki Sherpa, who summited Everest at the age of twenty! Dinner was the typical fare, with a lot of rice, lentils, and momos. I had potatoes and eggs and I must admit I ate my first snickers pie! Basically, this is a small snickers calzone. I’m laying in bed as I write this at 7:45 pm because Wongchu made us all go to bed! No one crosses Wongchu, so here I am typing on my iPhone inside my sleeping bag! Tomorrow we visit the monastery and then on to Pheriche.

A rainy day in the Khumbu, but a happy one!

Countdown to Nepal

Dear Family, Friends, and Colleagues,

I am on the final countdown until I leave for Nepal and Mt. Everest Base Camp! For those of you who don’t know, I am traveling with the Wilderness Medical Society (WMS) for the trip of lifetime. I am one of a lucky few medical professionals, along with some lay friends, who will be taking part in a continuing medical education (CME) adventure trek. Through this blog, I intend to share my first attempt at combining adventure, travel, and medicine. The WMS is partnering with the exceptionally experienced and professional Himalayan trekking and mountaineering agency, Peak Promotion, lead by none other than Wongchu Sherpa.

In fact, Peak Promotion is also blogging about the experience of all of the trekkers and climbers associated with the WMS trip and can be viewed here.

Our trek will start with a tour of the big city of Kathmandu, which will include the famed Monkey Temple, followed by a flight into the infamous Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. Often cited as “the most dangerous airport in the world”, the runway at Lukla is carved into a steep incline (12%) on a hillside. The terrain is such that there is apparently no opportunity for a successful go-around or short final. In fact, the southern end of the runway ends in a 2000 foot drop-off!

From Lukla, our trek begins, with our sights set on Mt. Everest Base Camp and the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) sponsored Everest ER.

Our general schedule is as follows, with a start date of April 10th.

Day 01:  Kathmandu arrival and welcome dinner
Day 02:  Kathmandu sightseeing
Day 03:  Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding
Day 04:  Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 05:  Namche and Hike to Khumjung Syangboche
Day 06:  Trek to Tengboche
Day 07:  Trek to Pheriche
Day 08:  Rest day in Pheriche
Day 09:  Trek to Lobuche
Day 10:  Trek to Gorakshep, hike to Kalapatthar, back down to Gorakshep
Day 11:  Trek to Everest Base Camp
Day 12:  Everest Base Camp
Day 13:  Pheriche
Day 14:  Namche
Day 15:  Lukla
Day 16:  Flight to Kathmandu
Day 17:  Rest day in Kathmandu and Farewell Dinner
Day 18:  Departure*

*Departure date, on day 18, ends the WMS/Peak Promotion sponsored trek. A handful of other lucky trekkers and I will be heading to Chitwan National Park for 4 additional days of a jungle tour, elephant riding, and a search for tigers, sloth bears, and honey badgers!

Thanks for following. Pictures and updates to come!