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Last Day in the Khumbu

April 27, 2012 by 4 Comments

Today we started our final trekking day in the Khumbu, leaving Namche and headed for Lukla. Today’s hike was supposed to be a mellow one, but most of our group was pretty tired after the two previous long days. We took our time today, with many of us stopping to take pictures and soak in the last day in the mountains. Once we got to Lukla we pooled our money for tips for the Sherpas and porters who made this trip a wonderful experience. During dinner, all the people that helped us during this trek were called up individually and thanked. Everyone was very pleased with our success, with all of our trekking members making it to base camp (one that was sent down made it up to base camp and caught us on the last day). Both Wongchu and Tony Islas (WMS president) said a few words. We are all thrilled that we got to know these wonderful, patient, kind, and happy people. Our lives have been changed forever, thanks to these mountains, and more importantly, thanks to the incredible human beings who live and work in these here. They served as our guides, friends, and caretakers every step of the way.  Because of them, we were worry free in a potentially harsh environment. Thank you Sherpa team. You know who you are.

In the morning, we catch the first flight out of Lukla for Kathmandu. We have a farewell dinner tomorrow night and then many of our team leave Nepal the following day. Lucky for me, I get to head to the jungle for a few days! Who knows what experiences that will bring!

Another Unbelievable Day in the Khumbu

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Trail Down to Namche

April 24, 2012 by 6 Comments

Today we were on a mission toward Namche (12,300 ft) which is another 12 miles and a drop of another 2,900 ft in elevation. Today was a long day, with a lot of big drops interspersed with climbs. We still had some great views of Thamserku, Ama Dablam, and Everest. Big Ed and I stopped on the trail to kick some hacky sac that a young Sherpa girl had made and was kicking trailside. We spent a few minutes and had to catch the group, but the smile on the girl’s face was more than worth it.

During a break on the trail today, I caught up with the porter who has been carrying my bags. His name is Lakpa, and he carries about 40 kilos on his severely deformed back. As you can see, he is always happy and he greets me every morning to grab my bags to carry down the trail. Once I was over the guilt of this man carrying my bags for me (and beating me to our destination every day), I realized that this work is his only way to make a living. So today it was lucky that I caught up with him! I got a hug and he got a 3 dollar snickers bar. Good trade for me.

Once we got to Namche, those of us who had our bags got immediate showers (thanks Lakpa!). People who had yaks as porters had to wait. I had a wonderfully hot shower and then went and found the Tibetan lady who had saved a few items for me since our trip up the trail. Her name is Lhakpa Dormu, and she came to Nepal in 1982.

She does amazing craft work. I couldn’t barter with her because she was the sweetest and cutest little lady I’ve ever met. She even put a parting gift in my pocket when I left her store today, which was a bracelet made from yak bone. Her husband and son work in her store too and are also very sweet. We both got a laugh out of a picture together!

Tomorrow, we are off to Lukla, where we have a goodbye celebration with the Sherpas and porters before we leave the Khumbu and head back to Kathmandu.

Another Blue Sky Happy Day!

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Trek Down The Mountain

April 23, 2012 by 4 Comments

Today we started our trek back down the mountain. We leave 2 of our colleagues at base camp who are climbing up to camp 2. A third member became ill, so he is headed back down the mountain with the group. The trek down is much faster than up because we are acclimatized. Today our hike is to Pheriche, which is about 12 miles in distance with a loss of 3,400 ft in elevation. Along the way, we took a short break in Gorakshep, where there was a group of climbers from India who were waiting for Wongchu to start a ceremony that was meant to be a blessing on a project to improve the trail to Everest.  Both Wongchu and Tony spoke during this amazingly detailed ceremony. In fact, Wongchu was delayed so Pasang Sherpa lead us the rest of the way. This was a nice change of pace for some of us, since Pasang takes fewer breaks!


It is amazing how great I feel at 14,200 ft! At Everest base camp, just trying to get out of my sleeping bag made me out of breath. Now, I feel like I could go for a run! My Spo2 is back up to 92%. It was down to 84% at base camp .

Today was a pretty long day on the trail. Many of us have developed the Khumbu cough, which is from the extreme cold and dry air. The cooking smoke hasn’t helped either! Despite all of that, everyone remains in good spirits and we look forward to the hike down to Namche, where there are showers in the room and risers instead of long drops (toilet instead of hole in ground)!

Can’t wait until Namche!

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Big Day at Everest Base Camp

April 23, 2012 by 4 Comments

Today we woke up to a cold glacier! Our breakfast was pancakes and porridge. Then we were off to River Works, David Breashears’ project documenting the loss of glaciers by comparing his modern photos to photos taken in history. This huge tent at base camp tent is a beautiful gallery. The photography is impressive.

Next was a walk through the edge of the ice fall. This was one of the highlights of our stay at base camp. We got some great shots of the glacier, as well as some pretty entertaining photos of our Sherpa friends clowning around. On a serious note, we found out today that a Sherpa from another expedition died today high up on the ice fall while crossing a ladder over a crevasse. Sherpas work very hard to please their clients up here. Often, they take risks in order to save time. The death of a Sherpa was hard news after getting to know these exceptional people.

Today was Big Ed’s birthday and our camp cook did an amazing job with two birthday cakes. We also got to meet Pemba, Karma, and Mingma Sherpa, who are all climbing Sherpas. These three are all very experienced and well known climbers. In fact, Karma has summitted Everest 11 times, with Mingma and Pemba summiting 4 times each. These three Sherpas are guiding 3 of our group up to Camp 2. These guys are impressive and Wongchu has a lot of confidence in them, so we think our colleagues are in great hands. Tomorrow we leave base camp to trek back down to Pheriche.

Another amazing day in the Himalayas

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Pheriche to Lobuche

April 19, 2012 by 9 Comments

Today we had a later start. Morning tea was at 7am, so we had a leisurely morning. After a usual breakfast for me, chapati with jam and a cheese omelette, we were back on the trail towards Lobuche. It is bright and sunny this morning! Unfortunately for some, the rescue helicopters have been pretty active already, bringing altitude sick people down the mountain. Fortunately, we are all fit and healthy thus far in this group. We had a great hike to Dugla for tea and lunch. After lunch, we stopped off at chorten hill, where there were multiple manis, chortens, and memorials of deceased Everest climbers, to include American Scott Fischer. There were several picture opportunities as the views were spectacular.

The hike before and after lunch was moderately strenuous for most, so we took our time at this elevation and reached Lobuche (16,200 ft.) at about 4pm. After a brief rest and some lemon tea (my new favorite altitude drink), we went on a short hike above Lobuche. There were great views of many peaks, to include Lobuche, Nuptse, Pumori, and the backside of Ama Dablam. After the hike, we had a great round table CME discussion about avalanches. Dinner for me was french fries with eggs. Wongchu says no meat the rest of the way up. His rule of thumb is “you looking at river, meat is ok, you looking at mountain, no meat!”

For those of you medical people, my Sp02 at this elevation is 92%. Many people are in the mid-80s. Wongchu’s was 83%, which proves that Sp02 at this elevation means very little, since he is kicking my butt up this mountain! Tomorrow we are off to Gorakshep and Kala Patthar!

Another Great day in the Khumbu!

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