Jungle Tour, Helo Ride, and Farewell Nepal

Once we returned to Kathmandu, our group went to the Tibetan Refugee Camp where they make the famous Tibetan rugs. We got to watch the whole process, from making the threads to the weaving of intricate patterns. All of the proceeds benefit the local Tibetan refugees, so most people found something they wanted to lug home to the States.

The rest of our time was spent preparing for a departure home since many people were scheduled to return to the States the next day. A few of us had additional plans and after a day or two to regroup, we headed off to Chitwan National Park for a jungle tour.  We expected a much different experience from the Khumbu, and we got it! Once we descended down to sea level elevation towards the park, the heat and humidity became impressive. We arrived to the park to find a wooden canoe waiting to take us across a river to the Jungle Island Resort. This boat ride was interesting, to say the least, because we had a leaky bottom, 2 inches of freeboard, and a dude with a bamboo pole pushing us and our luggage across crocodile alley. As it turns out, we took this little jaunt multiple times without issue, but we were all prepared to swim each time we got in that little boat. And we did see crocodiles. And bears. And Rhinos. But I will get to that in a minute.

Once we arrived at the “resort”, we had a little introduction to the island and the jungle and headed off on our first walk. Now, the guide books say that one should not “walk” around the park, because it is dangerous and to stick to motorized or elephant transport. Of course our first experience in the jungle is a walk around the park! Our very knowledgeable guides briefed us on how to stay safe in the jungle. The top three threats are the rhino, the sloth bear, and the tiger. With the rhino, we are supposed to run like hell, zigzag, and/or climb a tree. “Rhino very dangerous” says Jeet. Well that is just fabulous. And what about the sloth bear? Well, Jeet says they are also very dangerous and to act big (I got that one down), and loud (that one too). Also, to avoid them if they have their young with them. Lastly, the tiger, Jeet says “not so dangerous” during the day. Jeet says he only sees them about once a month and if we do see one, never to run, never to take eyes off of them, and to never turn our back on them. Okay, so now that the ground rules are all spelled out, we take our first jungle walk. And after a 5 minute walk from the resort, I point off into the bush and innocently ask what the two large black figures are about 20 yards away? Jeet then leads us off the trail, through the bush to chase down the mother sloth bear and her large cub! You see, Jeet is armed with a 4 foot piece of bamboo, so I’m certain that we are completely safe. I can see that Jeet and his assistant, Hama, are very thorough and stick to all the ground rules, so none of us are worried at all. Besides, Jeet has only been hospitalized the one time for the sloth bear attack. And he seems fine. Jeet has never been hurt by a rhino. He says they “don’t see too good”. How many times has he been charged by a rhino I ask? Only 2 or 3 hundred times he says. Again, nothing to worry about.

Our next tour is on the back of some female elephants. We did see a rhino and while on the back of an elephant, they don’t seem so big. They are amazing animals and I felt a bit like I was in Jurassic Park. We got to see 4 other rhinos while in the back of a truck, along with barking deer, hog deer, spotted deer, and multiple kinds of birds. We never did get to see a tiger which was a little disappointing, but probably safer. And we never did catch up to the momma sloth bear and her cub. Turns out that while “sloth” is in their name, they are they are not slow, nor lazy! We also watched the elephant bathing and some of the Europeans and one of our group members got to help in that process. The majority of us didn’t want to get into that river, for many, many reasons.

Other highlights of the jungle were the huge jungle rats running along inside the ceiling of our rooms. The “open” style of the rooms, which allows pretty much anything in that wants in the room. And the fact that it was lava hot every day, all day. I think Ed took at least 5 cold showers each of our days in the park.

So after 3 days of the jungle, we returned to Kathmandu on the most amazing airplane ride yet. There was some turbulence, and it was really hot, but the highlight was when our pilots dropped our plane onto the landing strip with two wheels touching at the same time. It wasn’t the two wheels that typically touch first, but at least we were back to civilization.

The next two days are slated for some last minute shopping and eating. The famous Rum Doodle, Fire and Ice Pizza, and Kilroys are all on the agenda. We also got to greet the 2 team members who went up to Everest Camp 2. It was great to see them back safe and sound after reaching their objective. They were very complimentary of their Sherpa guides. I know I rave about these people, but there is no one like them in the world!

Wait, a little more fun before I go. I got a real treat this morning, the day before I leave, with Bobby V., Ed, Melissa, and I flying up to Kyanjing in a helicopter. We landed at Kyanjing village (about 12,500 ft elevation), which is located in the Langtang National Park on the Tibetan border. This was an amazing ride. We saw some beautiful mountain peaks during a very comfortable ride. The pilot is friends with the local tea house owner, a Tibetan man, who presented us with a nice breakfast of nak cheese, omelettes, and coffee while we sat outside and enjoyed the majestic views.

Of course I couldn’t resist visiting the shop of a local Tibetan woman and getting a picture with her. What a great day!

Tomorrow night I leave this enchanting country and the majestic peaks I came to see. I will be sad to leave, but have learned and experienced far more than I could have imagined. While this country is peaceful and chaotic, rich and poor, pristine and dirty, brutally cold and lava hot, the extreme contrasts are complimented by what is consistent here, which are the amazing Nepali people. What an awesome experience. Dhanyabad, Nepal. I had a blast!

Blue Sky Happy Day

Last Day in the Khumbu

Today we started our final trekking day in the Khumbu, leaving Namche and headed for Lukla. Today’s hike was supposed to be a mellow one, but most of our group was pretty tired after the two previous long days. We took our time today, with many of us stopping to take pictures and soak in the last day in the mountains. Once we got to Lukla we pooled our money for tips for the Sherpas and porters who made this trip a wonderful experience. During dinner, all the people that helped us during this trek were called up individually and thanked. Everyone was very pleased with our success, with all of our trekking members making it to base camp (one that was sent down made it up to base camp and caught us on the last day). Both Wongchu and Tony Islas (WMS president) said a few words. We are all thrilled that we got to know these wonderful, patient, kind, and happy people. Our lives have been changed forever, thanks to these mountains, and more importantly, thanks to the incredible human beings who live and work in these here. They served as our guides, friends, and caretakers every step of the way.  Because of them, we were worry free in a potentially harsh environment. Thank you Sherpa team. You know who you are.

In the morning, we catch the first flight out of Lukla for Kathmandu. We have a farewell dinner tomorrow night and then many of our team leave Nepal the following day. Lucky for me, I get to head to the jungle for a few days! Who knows what experiences that will bring!

Another Unbelievable Day in the Khumbu

Trail Down to Namche

Today we were on a mission toward Namche (12,300 ft) which is another 12 miles and a drop of another 2,900 ft in elevation. Today was a long day, with a lot of big drops interspersed with climbs. We still had some great views of Thamserku, Ama Dablam, and Everest. Big Ed and I stopped on the trail to kick some hacky sac that a young Sherpa girl had made and was kicking trailside. We spent a few minutes and had to catch the group, but the smile on the girl’s face was more than worth it.

During a break on the trail today, I caught up with the porter who has been carrying my bags. His name is Lakpa, and he carries about 40 kilos on his severely deformed back. As you can see, he is always happy and he greets me every morning to grab my bags to carry down the trail. Once I was over the guilt of this man carrying my bags for me (and beating me to our destination every day), I realized that this work is his only way to make a living. So today it was lucky that I caught up with him! I got a hug and he got a 3 dollar snickers bar. Good trade for me.

Once we got to Namche, those of us who had our bags got immediate showers (thanks Lakpa!). People who had yaks as porters had to wait. I had a wonderfully hot shower and then went and found the Tibetan lady who had saved a few items for me since our trip up the trail. Her name is Lhakpa Dormu, and she came to Nepal in 1982.

She does amazing craft work. I couldn’t barter with her because she was the sweetest and cutest little lady I’ve ever met. She even put a parting gift in my pocket when I left her store today, which was a bracelet made from yak bone. Her husband and son work in her store too and are also very sweet. We both got a laugh out of a picture together!

Tomorrow, we are off to Lukla, where we have a goodbye celebration with the Sherpas and porters before we leave the Khumbu and head back to Kathmandu.

Another Blue Sky Happy Day!

City Life, Bhojhan Griha, the Kama Sutra and the Yeti


Great day! 11 of us tourists along with our Peak Promotion guide, Ganesh Sharma, walked around the city for some shopping and sight seeing. The city was busier on Tuesday. More people, more chaos, and more entertainment! The city continues to surprise us all, with the constant stream of people, cars, motorcycles, and rickshaws down the narrow streets and walkways. It struck me today that while there is constant honking and frequent near misses, the Nepali people never appear upset. They simply go with the flow of the chaos. What a wonderful people!

We were able to see dozens of the shops in Thamel, with many of us buying beads, prayer flags, and other cultural items. The afternoon consisted of a briefing by Wongchu about our trek, a visit from David Breashears, a lecture on travel medicine, and a quick walk before dinner. We’ve been busy! The highlight of the day was dinner at Bhojan Griha, which is the 150-year-old home of the Royal Priest. This was an amazing dining experience where we were treated to many of the Nepali staples while enjoying cultural music and dancing. The band was an interesting mix of a flute, tambourine, drums, and a harmonium. It wasn’t quite Treefort, but it was pretty cool.

After dinner, my new friend Ganesh took me to see the bar in the next room at Bhojan Griha. Ganesh seems to giggle at me frequently as I butcher the language and ask silly questions, but it didn’t take long for me to realize that he was laughing at my reaction to what I was seeing. The intricate carvings in this bar, represented the Kama Sutra! We were standing in a Kama Sutra bar!

Tomorrow is the big tour for much of the day, visiting the temples and enjoying more of this fantastic culture! And in case you all were wondering, Wongchu has made it official. I am now, the Yeti (Laugh it up Wound Healing Gang).

Another Blue Sky Happy Day Here in Nepal

Nepal Gear!

Departing tomorrow and all my gear is ready to go.  I have all of the prescribed items, including my snacks!  Those of you who know me, snacks are pretty high on the list of things I need to travel safely.  Luckily, the Wound Healing and Hyperbaric Medicine staff were kind enough to provide me with an amazing assortment of snacks and other interesting “items” to bring along on my adventure.  Thanks for the amazing send off!  Another very important item is my shrink wrapped toilet paper.  Thanks Eric.  The rest is all here, somewhere….

See you all in a month!

 

 

Countdown to Nepal

Dear Family, Friends, and Colleagues,

I am on the final countdown until I leave for Nepal and Mt. Everest Base Camp! For those of you who don’t know, I am traveling with the Wilderness Medical Society (WMS) for the trip of lifetime. I am one of a lucky few medical professionals, along with some lay friends, who will be taking part in a continuing medical education (CME) adventure trek. Through this blog, I intend to share my first attempt at combining adventure, travel, and medicine. The WMS is partnering with the exceptionally experienced and professional Himalayan trekking and mountaineering agency, Peak Promotion, lead by none other than Wongchu Sherpa.

In fact, Peak Promotion is also blogging about the experience of all of the trekkers and climbers associated with the WMS trip and can be viewed here.

Our trek will start with a tour of the big city of Kathmandu, which will include the famed Monkey Temple, followed by a flight into the infamous Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. Often cited as “the most dangerous airport in the world”, the runway at Lukla is carved into a steep incline (12%) on a hillside. The terrain is such that there is apparently no opportunity for a successful go-around or short final. In fact, the southern end of the runway ends in a 2000 foot drop-off!

From Lukla, our trek begins, with our sights set on Mt. Everest Base Camp and the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) sponsored Everest ER.

Our general schedule is as follows, with a start date of April 10th.

Day 01:  Kathmandu arrival and welcome dinner
Day 02:  Kathmandu sightseeing
Day 03:  Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding
Day 04:  Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 05:  Namche and Hike to Khumjung Syangboche
Day 06:  Trek to Tengboche
Day 07:  Trek to Pheriche
Day 08:  Rest day in Pheriche
Day 09:  Trek to Lobuche
Day 10:  Trek to Gorakshep, hike to Kalapatthar, back down to Gorakshep
Day 11:  Trek to Everest Base Camp
Day 12:  Everest Base Camp
Day 13:  Pheriche
Day 14:  Namche
Day 15:  Lukla
Day 16:  Flight to Kathmandu
Day 17:  Rest day in Kathmandu and Farewell Dinner
Day 18:  Departure*

*Departure date, on day 18, ends the WMS/Peak Promotion sponsored trek. A handful of other lucky trekkers and I will be heading to Chitwan National Park for 4 additional days of a jungle tour, elephant riding, and a search for tigers, sloth bears, and honey badgers!

Thanks for following. Pictures and updates to come!