Halibut!

Halibut!

Yum!

Alaska!

King Salmon.

Volcano.

Jungle Tour, Helo Ride, and Farewell Nepal

Once we returned to Kathmandu, our group went to the Tibetan Refugee Camp where they make the famous Tibetan rugs. We got to watch the whole process, from making the threads to the weaving of intricate patterns. All of the proceeds benefit the local Tibetan refugees, so most people found something they wanted to lug home to the States.

The rest of our time was spent preparing for a departure home since many people were scheduled to return to the States the next day. A few of us had additional plans and after a day or two to regroup, we headed off to Chitwan National Park for a jungle tour.  We expected a much different experience from the Khumbu, and we got it! Once we descended down to sea level elevation towards the park, the heat and humidity became impressive. We arrived to the park to find a wooden canoe waiting to take us across a river to the Jungle Island Resort. This boat ride was interesting, to say the least, because we had a leaky bottom, 2 inches of freeboard, and a dude with a bamboo pole pushing us and our luggage across crocodile alley. As it turns out, we took this little jaunt multiple times without issue, but we were all prepared to swim each time we got in that little boat. And we did see crocodiles. And bears. And Rhinos. But I will get to that in a minute.

Once we arrived at the “resort”, we had a little introduction to the island and the jungle and headed off on our first walk. Now, the guide books say that one should not “walk” around the park, because it is dangerous and to stick to motorized or elephant transport. Of course our first experience in the jungle is a walk around the park! Our very knowledgeable guides briefed us on how to stay safe in the jungle. The top three threats are the rhino, the sloth bear, and the tiger. With the rhino, we are supposed to run like hell, zigzag, and/or climb a tree. “Rhino very dangerous” says Jeet. Well that is just fabulous. And what about the sloth bear? Well, Jeet says they are also very dangerous and to act big (I got that one down), and loud (that one too). Also, to avoid them if they have their young with them. Lastly, the tiger, Jeet says “not so dangerous” during the day. Jeet says he only sees them about once a month and if we do see one, never to run, never to take eyes off of them, and to never turn our back on them. Okay, so now that the ground rules are all spelled out, we take our first jungle walk. And after a 5 minute walk from the resort, I point off into the bush and innocently ask what the two large black figures are about 20 yards away? Jeet then leads us off the trail, through the bush to chase down the mother sloth bear and her large cub! You see, Jeet is armed with a 4 foot piece of bamboo, so I’m certain that we are completely safe. I can see that Jeet and his assistant, Hama, are very thorough and stick to all the ground rules, so none of us are worried at all. Besides, Jeet has only been hospitalized the one time for the sloth bear attack. And he seems fine. Jeet has never been hurt by a rhino. He says they “don’t see too good”. How many times has he been charged by a rhino I ask? Only 2 or 3 hundred times he says. Again, nothing to worry about.

Our next tour is on the back of some female elephants. We did see a rhino and while on the back of an elephant, they don’t seem so big. They are amazing animals and I felt a bit like I was in Jurassic Park. We got to see 4 other rhinos while in the back of a truck, along with barking deer, hog deer, spotted deer, and multiple kinds of birds. We never did get to see a tiger which was a little disappointing, but probably safer. And we never did catch up to the momma sloth bear and her cub. Turns out that while “sloth” is in their name, they are they are not slow, nor lazy! We also watched the elephant bathing and some of the Europeans and one of our group members got to help in that process. The majority of us didn’t want to get into that river, for many, many reasons.

Other highlights of the jungle were the huge jungle rats running along inside the ceiling of our rooms. The “open” style of the rooms, which allows pretty much anything in that wants in the room. And the fact that it was lava hot every day, all day. I think Ed took at least 5 cold showers each of our days in the park.

So after 3 days of the jungle, we returned to Kathmandu on the most amazing airplane ride yet. There was some turbulence, and it was really hot, but the highlight was when our pilots dropped our plane onto the landing strip with two wheels touching at the same time. It wasn’t the two wheels that typically touch first, but at least we were back to civilization.

The next two days are slated for some last minute shopping and eating. The famous Rum Doodle, Fire and Ice Pizza, and Kilroys are all on the agenda. We also got to greet the 2 team members who went up to Everest Camp 2. It was great to see them back safe and sound after reaching their objective. They were very complimentary of their Sherpa guides. I know I rave about these people, but there is no one like them in the world!

Wait, a little more fun before I go. I got a real treat this morning, the day before I leave, with Bobby V., Ed, Melissa, and I flying up to Kyanjing in a helicopter. We landed at Kyanjing village (about 12,500 ft elevation), which is located in the Langtang National Park on the Tibetan border. This was an amazing ride. We saw some beautiful mountain peaks during a very comfortable ride. The pilot is friends with the local tea house owner, a Tibetan man, who presented us with a nice breakfast of nak cheese, omelettes, and coffee while we sat outside and enjoyed the majestic views.

Of course I couldn’t resist visiting the shop of a local Tibetan woman and getting a picture with her. What a great day!

Tomorrow night I leave this enchanting country and the majestic peaks I came to see. I will be sad to leave, but have learned and experienced far more than I could have imagined. While this country is peaceful and chaotic, rich and poor, pristine and dirty, brutally cold and lava hot, the extreme contrasts are complimented by what is consistent here, which are the amazing Nepali people. What an awesome experience. Dhanyabad, Nepal. I had a blast!

Blue Sky Happy Day

Last Day in the Khumbu

Today we started our final trekking day in the Khumbu, leaving Namche and headed for Lukla. Today’s hike was supposed to be a mellow one, but most of our group was pretty tired after the two previous long days. We took our time today, with many of us stopping to take pictures and soak in the last day in the mountains. Once we got to Lukla we pooled our money for tips for the Sherpas and porters who made this trip a wonderful experience. During dinner, all the people that helped us during this trek were called up individually and thanked. Everyone was very pleased with our success, with all of our trekking members making it to base camp (one that was sent down made it up to base camp and caught us on the last day). Both Wongchu and Tony Islas (WMS president) said a few words. We are all thrilled that we got to know these wonderful, patient, kind, and happy people. Our lives have been changed forever, thanks to these mountains, and more importantly, thanks to the incredible human beings who live and work in these here. They served as our guides, friends, and caretakers every step of the way.  Because of them, we were worry free in a potentially harsh environment. Thank you Sherpa team. You know who you are.

In the morning, we catch the first flight out of Lukla for Kathmandu. We have a farewell dinner tomorrow night and then many of our team leave Nepal the following day. Lucky for me, I get to head to the jungle for a few days! Who knows what experiences that will bring!

Another Unbelievable Day in the Khumbu

Trail Down to Namche

Today we were on a mission toward Namche (12,300 ft) which is another 12 miles and a drop of another 2,900 ft in elevation. Today was a long day, with a lot of big drops interspersed with climbs. We still had some great views of Thamserku, Ama Dablam, and Everest. Big Ed and I stopped on the trail to kick some hacky sac that a young Sherpa girl had made and was kicking trailside. We spent a few minutes and had to catch the group, but the smile on the girl’s face was more than worth it.

During a break on the trail today, I caught up with the porter who has been carrying my bags. His name is Lakpa, and he carries about 40 kilos on his severely deformed back. As you can see, he is always happy and he greets me every morning to grab my bags to carry down the trail. Once I was over the guilt of this man carrying my bags for me (and beating me to our destination every day), I realized that this work is his only way to make a living. So today it was lucky that I caught up with him! I got a hug and he got a 3 dollar snickers bar. Good trade for me.

Once we got to Namche, those of us who had our bags got immediate showers (thanks Lakpa!). People who had yaks as porters had to wait. I had a wonderfully hot shower and then went and found the Tibetan lady who had saved a few items for me since our trip up the trail. Her name is Lhakpa Dormu, and she came to Nepal in 1982.

She does amazing craft work. I couldn’t barter with her because she was the sweetest and cutest little lady I’ve ever met. She even put a parting gift in my pocket when I left her store today, which was a bracelet made from yak bone. Her husband and son work in her store too and are also very sweet. We both got a laugh out of a picture together!

Tomorrow, we are off to Lukla, where we have a goodbye celebration with the Sherpas and porters before we leave the Khumbu and head back to Kathmandu.

Another Blue Sky Happy Day!

Trek Down The Mountain

Today we started our trek back down the mountain. We leave 2 of our colleagues at base camp who are climbing up to camp 2. A third member became ill, so he is headed back down the mountain with the group. The trek down is much faster than up because we are acclimatized. Today our hike is to Pheriche, which is about 12 miles in distance with a loss of 3,400 ft in elevation. Along the way, we took a short break in Gorakshep, where there was a group of climbers from India who were waiting for Wongchu to start a ceremony that was meant to be a blessing on a project to improve the trail to Everest.  Both Wongchu and Tony spoke during this amazingly detailed ceremony. In fact, Wongchu was delayed so Pasang Sherpa lead us the rest of the way. This was a nice change of pace for some of us, since Pasang takes fewer breaks!


It is amazing how great I feel at 14,200 ft! At Everest base camp, just trying to get out of my sleeping bag made me out of breath. Now, I feel like I could go for a run! My Spo2 is back up to 92%. It was down to 84% at base camp .

Today was a pretty long day on the trail. Many of us have developed the Khumbu cough, which is from the extreme cold and dry air. The cooking smoke hasn’t helped either! Despite all of that, everyone remains in good spirits and we look forward to the hike down to Namche, where there are showers in the room and risers instead of long drops (toilet instead of hole in ground)!

Can’t wait until Namche!

Big Day at Everest Base Camp

Today we woke up to a cold glacier! Our breakfast was pancakes and porridge. Then we were off to River Works, David Breashears’ project documenting the loss of glaciers by comparing his modern photos to photos taken in history. This huge tent at base camp tent is a beautiful gallery. The photography is impressive.

Next was a walk through the edge of the ice fall. This was one of the highlights of our stay at base camp. We got some great shots of the glacier, as well as some pretty entertaining photos of our Sherpa friends clowning around. On a serious note, we found out today that a Sherpa from another expedition died today high up on the ice fall while crossing a ladder over a crevasse. Sherpas work very hard to please their clients up here. Often, they take risks in order to save time. The death of a Sherpa was hard news after getting to know these exceptional people.

Today was Big Ed’s birthday and our camp cook did an amazing job with two birthday cakes. We also got to meet Pemba, Karma, and Mingma Sherpa, who are all climbing Sherpas. These three are all very experienced and well known climbers. In fact, Karma has summitted Everest 11 times, with Mingma and Pemba summiting 4 times each. These three Sherpas are guiding 3 of our group up to Camp 2. These guys are impressive and Wongchu has a lot of confidence in them, so we think our colleagues are in great hands. Tomorrow we leave base camp to trek back down to Pheriche.

Another amazing day in the Himalayas